crazyscot: Me in front of Tongariro (nz)
posted by [personal profile] crazyscot at 10:00pm on 10/02/2011 under , ,
Mordor, Mount Doom, Taupo, Tokaanu hot springs

On the way to our first stop today we passed the Raumiru railway spiral. It's a curious but practical piece of engineering which works around the crinkly landscape. As well as snaking its way back and forth, the track goes round in a circle and passes under itself in a tunnel; it has to do this in order to give the railway a sensible working gradient. (In the search for the lookout we missed the last sign and ended up going down a slightly scary track; the less said about that the better...)

4841 RuapehuOur first proper call was the Whakapapa ski field, part-way up Te Heuheu in the Tongariro National Park. Not for the skiing, you understand, but because Peter Jackson used the area as Mordor in the LotR films. It's not difficult to see why - the words rugged and desolate spring to mind. It's also an active volcanic field with warnings posted about the risk of eruptions and mud flows (and what to do if the sirens sound). In the summer they keep a couple of chairlifts and the cafe at 2020m going for sightseers; we couldn't resist. Awesome is not a word to be used lightly, but I'd say it applies here. Igneous rock abounds; old volcanic flows form channels down the mountain.

When we had picked up our jaws we continued on our travels. It was my turn to drive down the hill from the ski village - a positively alpine road with multiple hairpins. Most of the time I just kept the car in 3rd gear and let it carry on at idle. The car's estimate of the range remaining in the tank rose by about 30km from top to bottom!

1000612 Yours truly in front of NgauruhoeBack on the main road, we went on to the Mangatepopo mountain hut - it's at one end of the Tongaririo Alpine Crossing which we hope to walk some day. From there we looked up at Ngauruhoe - Mount Doom - whose top was no longer shrouded by cloud, revealing the crater rim. There were some silly photos.

Mid-afternoon now, we pressed on to Taupo in the hopes of getting to see some hot springs. (Aside: Lake Taupo is gorgeous. Must come back here one day.) Disappointingly, we got into Taupo itself around 5pm and everything was already shut for the day.

We went on to look carefully at the map and saw that Tokaanu - on the route back to the motel - had some springs. Thankfully, these were ungated and free to walk around! Steaming sulphurous hot pools, burbling mud pools, this was what were looking for.

And so back to the motel via some food.
location: Taumaranui

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