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The Far North
Today's activity was an interactive coach tour of the Far North. As we had set an alarm to make the 0715 pick-up, we headed out to the beach at 0630 to try and catch the dawn. Alas, we were unsuccessful; it was too cloudy.
Anyway. The bus tour lasted all day; the stops were numerous and varied (one might say slightly random, but they had their purposes). After picking up tea and pack lunches, the first real stop was a small park created around some old gumdiggers holes. The gum is the fossilised remains of ancient (20-150kya) tree sap; it can be used to make gumboots and other items in place of rubber, and as a feedstock for linoleum and related chemicals. As such the area was the location of a gold-like rush in the C19th; the exhibits show how the available mining and housing technology evolved during the time extraction was carried out commercially.
Onwards, via a kiwi traffic jam, to Cape Reinga for noon. This is the end of the road - NZ State Highway 1 to be precise, which spans the length of the country. I have no idea whether they have sponsored cycles and walks between Cape Reinga and Bluff, but having seen the madness of the average kiwi I'd be astounded if they didn't. The Cape is the meeting point between the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean; there is a distinct colour change and (so we're told) some days a noticeable change in behaviour between the two bodies of water as they meet. There is also a lighthouse there, sitting rather awkwardly close to a sacred Maori site: on a promontary lies a lone kahika tree which is said to be part of the gateway from this world to the spirit world. The site is so sacred that it is tapu (forbidden) to eat or drink there; shame about the number of visitors carrying bottles of water (despite the signs), and I can't help but wonder what the Maori response was to the paheka building a dirty great lighthouse so close to the tree.
We went to the nearby Taputaputa beach to eat lunch (and swim in the Pacific, for those who wished). There's not much to report; next stop was the giant sand dunes at Te Paki, for some boogie boarding. This is a bit like surfing for beginners. First, you have to hike up an enormous dune in bare feet - 50 metres, perhaps, of 1-in-1 slope; painfully hot in places from the sun, and very tiring to climb (two steps forward, one step back). Then you lie face down on your board, lean just so, and away you go... Unfortunately my centre of gravity was wrongly placed on the board, too far forwards; I felt compelled to apply my brakes (my feet!) so as to not wipe out and risk breaking my neck. Perhaps given more time and practice I could have done a better job, but I didn't have the energy to hike back up for another go.
Then it was time for a highlight - the Ninety Mile Beach drive. Despite being underwater for a few hours either side of high tide, this is a designated public highway (although car rental contracts forbid it - it's a punishing road to drive on, risky from the rocks and there's quicksand in places). We also made a swimming stop on the beach. We were warned to take care as the rip is quite strong... he wasn't kidding. I went for a paddle and was surprised to be caught out by a wave causing the water to rise a few inches around me in a split second!
The penultimate stop was at a slightly tacky gift shop just off the beach which just happens to conveniently have a bus wash installed... the final stop was at the fish and chip shop in Mangonui. While I was partaking of their chips I noticed a certificate from the Telegraph on the wall proclaiming them as a winner of the NZ Best Restaurant category in their Best of British awards.
And then home. We got back about twelve hours after we had been picked up this morning. It was a very whistle-stop tour, but didn't feel rushed and allowed us to do more than had we been driving independently in the area. Well worth it. While there are several companies who operate similar day trips, this one in particular was run by Explore NZ and our driver, Craig, did a really good job of making us all feel welcome and part of the group.
Today's activity was an interactive coach tour of the Far North. As we had set an alarm to make the 0715 pick-up, we headed out to the beach at 0630 to try and catch the dawn. Alas, we were unsuccessful; it was too cloudy.
Anyway. The bus tour lasted all day; the stops were numerous and varied (one might say slightly random, but they had their purposes). After picking up tea and pack lunches, the first real stop was a small park created around some old gumdiggers holes. The gum is the fossilised remains of ancient (20-150kya) tree sap; it can be used to make gumboots and other items in place of rubber, and as a feedstock for linoleum and related chemicals. As such the area was the location of a gold-like rush in the C19th; the exhibits show how the available mining and housing technology evolved during the time extraction was carried out commercially. Onwards, via a kiwi traffic jam, to Cape Reinga for noon. This is the end of the road - NZ State Highway 1 to be precise, which spans the length of the country. I have no idea whether they have sponsored cycles and walks between Cape Reinga and Bluff, but having seen the madness of the average kiwi I'd be astounded if they didn't. The Cape is the meeting point between the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean; there is a distinct colour change and (so we're told) some days a noticeable change in behaviour between the two bodies of water as they meet. There is also a lighthouse there, sitting rather awkwardly close to a sacred Maori site: on a promontary lies a lone kahika tree which is said to be part of the gateway from this world to the spirit world. The site is so sacred that it is tapu (forbidden) to eat or drink there; shame about the number of visitors carrying bottles of water (despite the signs), and I can't help but wonder what the Maori response was to the paheka building a dirty great lighthouse so close to the tree. We went to the nearby Taputaputa beach to eat lunch (and swim in the Pacific, for those who wished). There's not much to report; next stop was the giant sand dunes at Te Paki, for some boogie boarding. This is a bit like surfing for beginners. First, you have to hike up an enormous dune in bare feet - 50 metres, perhaps, of 1-in-1 slope; painfully hot in places from the sun, and very tiring to climb (two steps forward, one step back). Then you lie face down on your board, lean just so, and away you go... Unfortunately my centre of gravity was wrongly placed on the board, too far forwards; I felt compelled to apply my brakes (my feet!) so as to not wipe out and risk breaking my neck. Perhaps given more time and practice I could have done a better job, but I didn't have the energy to hike back up for another go.Then it was time for a highlight - the Ninety Mile Beach drive. Despite being underwater for a few hours either side of high tide, this is a designated public highway (although car rental contracts forbid it - it's a punishing road to drive on, risky from the rocks and there's quicksand in places). We also made a swimming stop on the beach. We were warned to take care as the rip is quite strong... he wasn't kidding. I went for a paddle and was surprised to be caught out by a wave causing the water to rise a few inches around me in a split second!The penultimate stop was at a slightly tacky gift shop just off the beach which just happens to conveniently have a bus wash installed... the final stop was at the fish and chip shop in Mangonui. While I was partaking of their chips I noticed a certificate from the Telegraph on the wall proclaiming them as a winner of the NZ Best Restaurant category in their Best of British awards.
And then home. We got back about twelve hours after we had been picked up this morning. It was a very whistle-stop tour, but didn't feel rushed and allowed us to do more than had we been driving independently in the area. Well worth it. While there are several companies who operate similar day trips, this one in particular was run by Explore NZ and our driver, Craig, did a really good job of making us all feel welcome and part of the group.
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